Wine grapes of Hungary

GRAPES FOR WHITE WINE

Furmint
Yellow with greenish tints, with a bouquet reminiscent of ripe apples in youth. After ageing in wood it develops an aroma of honey and walnuts. Rich in extract, it makes a heady, robust wine with accented acids. It requires ageing and is suitable for keeping. It is commonly known as the grape used for Tokaj Aszú. The principal growing areas are Tokaj and Somlo.

Hárslevelű ('linden leaf')
A late ripening variety that has a thin skin and therefore ideal for Botrytis infection (in the Tokaj region). Greenish yellow with a fruity, light aroma. Faintly spicy on the palate, it offers more elegant acids than Furmint, and some tartness in the finish. The resident grape of Hegyalja, Somlo, and the Villany-Siklos region.

Juhfark ('sheepstail')
The name comes from the shape of the grape's clusters. It makes a straw-yellow wine with a restrained bouquet. Well defined acids and tartness on the palate. It is an uncomplex wine that improves greatly with time an ages gracefully. Unique to the Somlo district and when good wine is made from it, it is a real revelation.

Leányka ('maiden')
Originally a Transsylvanian variety, yielding a with an understated aroma and for the most part soft acids, which is ideal for conversations. It is only suitable for long-term aging in exceptional years. The Eger region is one of the main growing areas.

Olaszriszling ('Italian or Welschriesling')
Related to Rhine Riesling only by name, this grape produces a straw-blond wine, occasionally with flashes of green. Not really rich in aroma, but the big wines have a bouquet reminiscent of mignonette. Invariably milder than Rhine Riesling, it has refined acids that are highly dependant on location and the year. It often has bitter almonds in the aftertaste. The best wines come from Csopak in the northern Balaton.

Tramini (Gewürztraminer)
In Hungary it is the spicy version of this grape that is better known. When ripe, the fruit is reddish in colour, making a wine that is golden yellow even in youth. It has an intense fragrance with a touch of rose and apricot, a muscat-like aroma. Except in Somlo, the wine's acids are mellow rather than pronounced. While it can handle some residual sugar, it is nicer when dry or semi-dry. The taste recalls lychee and cinnamon. It is grown in several regions across Hungary.

Muskotály (Muscat)
Sárga Muskotály (yellow muscat or muscat de lunel) is more elegant than Ottonel. Both varieties have an opulent, perfumed bouquet reminiscent of orange blossoms and contrary to popular belief they possess excellent if not very long-lived acids. When overripe, it produces a lovely dessert wine and can be found as the third ingredient of Aszú wines. At its best in cooler areas like Tokaj.

Szürkebarát (Pinot gris)
The ripe grapes are purplish red, making a wine that is pale gold in colour. When it has a high sugar content, it produces a naturally sweet wine, but its genuine aromas and flavours are best displayed in its dry version. Crisp and distinctive, the Hungarian version of this grape provides an interesting dimension. At its most attractive in Badacsony, and in the Balaton upper country.

Zöld Veltelini (Grüner Veltliner)
Major white variety in neighboring Austria. It should deserve more attention. It has a refreshing aroma, with the best wines resembling black pepper and mint. It commands a plentiful range of lovely acids. In Hungary the best Veltelinis are produced in Mőcsény and the upper Balaton country.

Irsai Olivér
A cross between Pozsonyi fehér ( white of Pozsony) and csabagyöngye, with a muscat aroma and gentle acids. It ages fast. A good wine for conversations.

Cserszegi Füszeres ('Cserszeg spice')
Its wine has recently appeared as a pure varietal and achieved fame in the UK. It is a welcome native addition to the better known Irsai for those who like an aromatic wine.

 

Grapes for Red Wine

Kadarka
A native Balkan wine, it was believed to have been brought to Hungary by the Serbs in the 16th Century. It was extremely popular in the 19th Century but was almost completely eliminated under communism. It used to make an excellent red when the vines were trained low, supported by staves only. While the wine is on the paler side owing to lower tannins, its acids are vigorous and well balanced. In good years it shows plenty of flavour all the way to spice. It matures well. The best known area is Szekszárd, which has always supplied us with the best quality, too. It is one of the key constituents of Bikaver (Bull's Blood) and is undergoing a revival.

Kékoportó ('blue Oporto' or Portugieser)
A grape that can only shine in its true colours in a warm climate (e.g. Villany and Szekszard), where it offers supple delicious acids and velvety tannins. It is not a long-lived wine in itself, usually blended with 10-20% Kekfrankos. An ideal easy going wine for a chat. When yields are severely reduced, its barrique interpretation can be a revelation.

Kékfrankos (Blaufrankisch)
Even in maturity its wine is closer to purple with crimson tints than to the "warmer" colour of a typical red wine. It can have rather hard acids, especially in cold growing areas such as Sopron. Although low yields will result in high extract, the wine will remains plain but straightforward and reliable. (Also known as "Nagyburgundi.")

Zweigelt
A recent hybrid of kékfrankos and Saint Laurent. It rarely makes a truly appreciable wine because the stocks can carry great weight, leading to high yields, which in turn entail diluted extract. If the yield is controlled, the wine can have good acidity, but it rarely ages well. Planted in many areas throughout the country.

* Information courtesy of Rohály's Wine guide